Three phrases to live by from Big Magic

Life lessons for any creative person

The book Big Magic by Elizabeth Gilbert was a pretty big deal... last summer. But of course I didn't read it at the same time as everyone else, I read it at the beginning of this year and loved it. You may wonder why I'm only just blogging about it now though and the reason is that recently I've found myself flicking back through its pages to re-absorb the encouragement and inspiration found within. It may sound a bit daft but it really does help with the inevitable self-doubt that comes with creativity especially when, like me, you're starting out in the scary world of selling the things you make. 

So rather than a book review, which would just be me saying how much I enjoyed it, I thought instead I'd pick out three phrases that stood out to me and could help any creative person through life: 

"Cooperate fully, humbly and joyfully with inspiration" (page 40)

Why it's important: You can't force inspiration. If you sit around waiting for it, it won't strike. So when you do get that exciting idea don't rush it, work with it.

"You do not need anybody's permission to live a creative life" (page 86)

And 

"Or if you do worry that you need a permission slip - THERE, I just gave it to you. [...] Now go make something." (page 90)

Why it's important: I had a cliched 'lightbulb moment' when I read that sentence. Subconsciously I'd been waiting for the 'permission' to give things a go. I don't know whose permission I was waiting for. But at that second I realised I was waiting for it. The lesson here is to stop waiting and simply start, because waiting rooms are pretty boring places. 

"Don't rush through the experiences and circumstances that have the most capacity to transform you." (page 247)

Why it's important: I'm SO impatient. Always trying to skip the journey and rush to the destination. But it turns out that's pretty stressful and tiring and, you know, impossible. A good approach instead is to go through the obstacles in your way, rather than try to rush around them.
Those are the three things I'm reminding myself of often at the moment. I've applied them to my creative business, but the book itself is about a creative life, therefore use them as affirmations in whatever way you need - to take that new class, to tackle that big idea or simply in your everyday decisions. And of course, it's a brilliant book so you really should read the whole thing if you haven't already!
If you've read it, I'd love to know what you thought in the comments.


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Five things I learned weaving on a circular loom*

By a complete weaving novice
Weaving is big right now and has been for some time, and you can see why, any craft that encapsulates gorgeous squishy yarns, pom-poms and tassels is kind of guaranteed to be a hit. Especially one which effortlessly crosses the bridge between modern design and traditional techniques (check out this pinterest board if you want to see some stunning examples...).
I've tried weaving once before with the freebie kit that came with issue 58 of Mollie Makes. Obviously I loved it, but didn't really know where to go with it next. So as soon as I spotted the Rico weaving kits on Sew Crafty Shop I knew what my second Design Team make would be! Ever ambitious (or fool hardy) I decided to try the circular weaving loom with some gorgeous DMC Natura Just Cotton yarns in blush, coral and teal.  

The yarns are just beautiful, super soft cotton and as soon as I saw the shades I knew they would be perfect for a rose. I couldn't help myself and added the pom-poms to finish it off which work well with the bowl shape I ended up with (see tip 5!). There's something so special about sitting down with a weaving loom; it's such a relaxing craft, the movements are rhythmic and it's not something you can rush so it's the perfect craft to unwind with after a day at work.

The Rico weaving loom comes instructions to warp your loom, weave and cut off, which were invaluable to a novice like me. But here's five extra tips I learned along the way: 
1. At the start of your circular weaving, keep pulling the yarn tight After warping (setting up) your loom, the fun bit starts. But the first few rounds of weaving on mine looked anything but pretty, until I pulled the yarn really tight and the wobbly ovals transformed into smooth, even circles.
2. Free-hand is fun There aren't many crafts where you can pick up the materials without any prior plan or design and create something beautiful. Embrace it. 
3. Trying to 'draw' shapes while weaving in a circle will blow your mind  If you do decide to try to weave a particular design do keep the 'free-hand' bit in mind, my rose shape evolved very naturally and halfway through I did try to draw how to finish it off, but of course you are constantly working with a curve shape which didn't translate to my drawing and mainly just caused me a bit of a headache! As soon as I abandoned the drawing and went back to free-hand, the rest of the rose appeared just fine.
4. Make the most of your edging Pom-poms and tassels, need I say more?
5. Iron your piece after cutting off but before tying your ends together Or if your piece uses big bulky yarns that aren't really suitable for ironing at least be sure to hold it flat before tying your ends together. Otherwise your weaving will curl into a bowl like shape, like mine has! 
Have you tried weaving on a circular loom before? Let me know if you have any extra tips too!

*some of the materials for this project were supplied by Sew Crafty, but all opinions are my own.



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Recently I've been...

Baking a citrus Maderia cake because I've scummed to the rule that you can't watch Bake Off without cake! It was also an excuse to try a recipe from last year's recipe book Bake Off Celebrations. I went with a summery citrus cake this time, but can't wait to try some of the autumnal and (dare I say it...) festive recipes, they look SO GOOD.

Exploring the gorgeous Charleston Farm House in East Sussex, the home of Bloomsbury Group members Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant. It became the Bloomsbury Group's country meeting place in the 1920s and beyond and every inch is covered with their decorative paintings and quirky furniture. The effect is stunning and you feel as though you are walking inside a painting yourself. Sadly, you can't take photographs inside the house, but here's one from the equally glorious and colourful garden.

Reading War and Peace; I didn't know the story before watching the BBC adaptation earlier this year and happened to mention to my Mum that although I enjoyed it I felt like the story line moved quite fast, well now I've seen the size of the book I can see why - there's a lot to get through! I'm not very far in yet, the font is tiny and there's so many Russian names to keep track of... have you read it? I'd love to know if you think it's worth persevering with?

Waiting not very patiently for the last of my tomatoes to ripen. Last year they got this big and then died, so I'm thrilled to have made it this far this year! We've already had lots but there are still some green ones waiting to turn red, which I'm hoping they'll do before it gets too cold for them...

What have you been up to?

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How to sew a quilted patchwork cushion cover*

Sew a set of stylish chair cushions - part 3

Time to sew the final chair cushion! I've so enjoyed creating these tutorials and really hope you've enjoyed them too! To complete the set I've gone for a patchwork cushion with a quilted effect to add a little cottage charm.

You will need: Fabrics - here's all the Sew Crafty ones I used Batting/wadding 2mm thick Thread Tracing paper and pencil Cushion pad Ribbon Sewing machine Scissors  Pins Tape measure
How to: 1. To create your pattern draw a 38cm square onto the tracing paper. If your cushion pads are a different size to mine, just make the square a few centimeters smaller than your cushion to make it nice and fitted. Draw your stripe pattern on top and mark the fabric you'll use for each stripe.

2. Cut up your pattern into the stripes (take a photo of it first in case you forget which order you placed the stripes in!).
3. This way of making your pattern doesn't include a seam allowance, so pin your pattern to your fabric and mark a 1.5cm seam allowance on each short edge and a 1cm seam allowance on each long edge and then cut out.

4. Place your first two stripes right side together, then pin and sew a 1cm seam down one of the long edges. 

5. Keep adding the stripes, right side together until you have completed the front of the cushion. Press seams open on the back.

6. Cut a square of batting slightly larger than your cushion front. Place the batting underneath your cushion front then pin and sew down each seam on the right side. Go slowly to get a neat finish.

7. The cushion backs are an envelope finish, so that they don't need a zip. To make them cut two fabric squares 41cm wide x 30cm high. Then on one long edge of each piece pin and sew a 1.5cm seam allowance. 

8.Take your ribbon and  cut  it into four pieces, make sure they are long enough to reach from your cushion and tie around your chair back - I tested mine against my chair and made them 25cm long.
9. Lay your two back squares on top of each other with right sides facing up. Then position your cushion ties, also facing inwards, at this point it's a good idea to go and test against your chair again to make sure they're in the right place.

10. Lay your cushion front on top and with the right side facing down, pin and sew a 1.5cm seam allowance around the edge. Then cut off the excess fabric at each corner, being careful not to cut your seam. This will make the corners sharper when you turn it out.

Finally, turn the right way out and fill with a cushion pad.

Here’s all four of the set together, I love how they’ve turned out! You can find the tutorial for the geometric cushion here and the tartan effect cushion here. 

Happy sewing :)
*some of the materials for this project were supplied by Sew Crafty, but all tutorials and opinions are my own



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Finished project | first attempt at knitted socks

I never seem to knit anything seasonally appropriate, you could say it was because I'm always behind with my works in progress (these, for example were supposed to be finished for Father's Day in June), but I prefer to think of it as being ahead as they won't be useful until winter, so August is still way ahead of time... ahem.
You definitely don't want to be wearing these in August (other than for photographic purposes, like I have of course) because they are super warm and cosy. With their ribbed pattern and cream tone they epitomise classic wellie boot socks at their best - simple, yet stylish and practical. 
The basic pattern is a vintage Bellmans Aran Knitting B1207 pattern belonging to my Mum. It's knitted flat from the top down and then seamed together. But instead of following the cable pattern I knitted rib (k4, p2) at the request of my Dad and also cast on 73 stitches rather than the recommended 53 as his current pair were too tight at the top. Because of this the top half did seem to take ages to knit and I'm not a fast knitter. Turning the heel and knitting up the stitches to join took a little bit of figuring out luckily my Mum and YouTube were on hand to advise. I also caused myself a headache by not detailing my pattern amendments very well when knitting the first sock, by the time it came for me to knit the second I'd forgotten what I'd done and my notes didn't make sense! It look me a whole evening to figure out - lesson learned for next time. 
But as usual now I've finished I'm so happy with them as is my Dad, which is the main thing! 

Wool - Sirdar Supersoft Aran, shade 0859



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How to sew a tartan effect chair cushion*

Sew a set of stylish chair cushions – part 2

So far my chair cushion set has two geometric pom-pom trim cushions - find out how to make them in part one here. And this week I'm going to be sewing a tartan chair cushion because, put simply, I love tartan but struggle to find it in blue and yellow colours to match our living room! Plus I'd never really considered how to sew something to resemble tartan and found coming up with the process a fun challenge. #geek

You will need: Fabrics - here's all the Sew Crafty ones I used Thread Tracing paper and pencil Cushion pad Ribbon Sewing machine Scissors  Pins Tape measure

How to: 1. To create your pattern draw a 38cm square onto the tracing paper. If your cushion pads are a different size to mine, just make the square a few centimeters smaller than your cushion to make it nice and fitted. Draw your tartan pattern on top. Then make a duplicate onto a second piece of tracing paper.

2. Cut the horizontal pieces out of one of your patterns and the vertical pieces out of another. 
3. This way of making your pattern doesn't include a seam allowance, so pin your pattern to your fabric and mark a 1.5cm seam allowance on each short edge and a 1cm seam allowance on each long edge and then cut out.

4. Fold and press a 1cm seam on both sides of your fabric strips. If they refuse to stay flat, hold them in place with a few pins. 

5. Cut a 41cm square of your background fabric for the front piece of your cushion.
6. Lay your front piece the right way up and start to arrange your fabric strips into your tartan pattern. To add some character, I weaved some of my pieces over and under each other. When you are happy with the arrangement pin it down.

7. Sew along both edges of all your fabric strips, staying as close to the edge as possible. 

8. The cushion backs in this tutorial are envelope style so they don't need a zip. To make them cut two fabric pieces, both 41cm wide x 30cm high. Then on one long edge of each piece pin and sew a 1.5cm seam allowance. 

9. Cut four pieces of ribbon, long enough to reach from your cushion and tie around your chair back - I tested mine against my chair and made them 25cm long.
10. Lay your two back pieces on top of each other with right sides facing up. Next lay your cushion ties in place, at this point it's a good idea to go and test against your chair again to make sure they're in the right position.

11. Finally lay your cushion front on top, right side facing down, pin and sew a 1.5cm seam allowance all the way around the edge. Then cut off the excess fabric at each corner, being careful not to cut your seam. This will make the corners sharper when you turn it out.

Turn the right way, fill with a cushion pad and you’re done! 

Here's a picture of the set so far, with the two cushions from part one, I can't wait to have all four done and on our chairs!

Learn how to make the final cushion here. 
*some of the materials for this project were supplied by Sew Crafty, but all tutorials and opinions are my own :)



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